Black Hair rescue: styles and strategies to keep your hair healthy
Author: Pamela Edwards
Black hair is more delicate than we think, and the drying agents, heat-styling and chemical processing we often subject it to can make it ex extremely vulnerable. With a little TLC, however, you can help your hair stay in good shape. Since so many attainable styles are easy on the hair, we reviewed a number of options and selected gorgeous looks that passed the stress test and promise to give your overworked tresses a welcome reprieve.
Flat Twists
Who doesn't love a great-looking do that is also low maintenance? These flat twists offer optimal style that stays in place (a plus for women who work out). Diane Bailey of the Tendrils Salon in Brooklyn created these twists. After blow-drying the hair, Bailey diagonally zigzag-parted the front half into sections. For hold, she applied a water-soluble gel (which is less damaging than alcohol-based ones) to each section, combing through it for even distribution, then twisted strands around the head, creating a horseshoe pattern. Afterward, Bailey cornrowed the hair in the back into a chignon to anchor the twists. To add shine without drying your strands, try Rusk's deepshine Sea Kelp Shining Gel. With regular maintenance, such as wrapping your hair with a silk scarf at night, this flat twist can last up to two weeks.
Combined Twists and Bantu Knots
Sisters eager to find the next big hit in natural styling will love this stunning combination by stylist Folumi Saunders of Locks-n-Chops in New York City. The hair in front was parted and made into double-strand flat twists. The knots in back were formed by dividing the hair into sections, twisting each section, then tying each twist into individual knots. The look works best on natural strands of short-to-medium length. (Relaxed or texturized tresses won't hold the knots.) A caveat: The styling of locks, twists and braids can prevent natural scalp oils from penetrating to the ends of the hair, which is why maintaining the moisture balance--through the use of nurturing hair creams and oils--is so critical. Praises Special Hair Oil and Supernatural Moisturizer is an ideal moisturizer for such do's.
Roller-set Waves
For those who love soft, easy tresses, using rollers instead of a curling iron to add texture is one of the most restful options around. Stylist Oscar James created this cascade of waves by roller-setting the hair on small to medium-size magnetic rollers, available at most beauty-supply stores. (They are smoother than mesh rollers and less likely to catch the hair, causing it to tangle or frizz.) First, James evenly distributed a leave-in conditioner (like Joico's Integrity Leave-In Conditioning Detangler) and alcohol-free setting lotion (Arosci Foam Defyning Sett is a good one) through the hair. He then set the hair vertically, which is less disturbing to the curl pattern (when you remove the roller) than a horizontal set. Curls will fall looser and longer as the week progresses. To maintain the look, pin-curl it at night.
An Easy Wrap
The bob is a staple for many Black women. The benefit: Wrap sets eliminate the need to use daily heat on the hair. James produced this look by trimming and shaping the model's chemically relaxed hair into a layered bob that can be worn spiky or sleek. The key to extending its life is to go light on the styling products because they can weigh down the hair. James prefers pomades, like MOP High Shine Pomade, which are light, contain little alcohol, add shine and can be combed through without stiffness. Wrapping the bob nightly also helps to preserve it.
Cornrows and Individual Braids
Braided do's can give the hair a break from daily styling rituals. We turned to master hair weaver Ellin LaVar of LaVar Hair Designs in New York City, who created this cornrow-braid combo with human-hair extensions. Hair at the front of the head was braided in diagonal cornrows from the crown to the ends. LaVar then took five or six of these braids and made a four-strand plait at the crown. The bottom layer, consisting of two-inch-squared individual braids, was left free at the ends. To keep this style, which can last up to four months, wash and condition hair weekly and tie it up at night with a silk scarf.
Maintenance tips
The pros offer this advice on how to keep your strands healthy and strong:
* Have a consistent regimen, Hair-care specialist Olive Benson of Olive's in Boston believes Black hair (as well as the scalp) needs consistent moisturizing and conditioning. The key: finding the appropriate product for your hair texture and using it consistently. Seek out a professional for help.
* Remove braids with care. A dry comb-out can cause hair breakage. Diane Bailey advises moistening hair before removing braids to minimize the trauma, especially if braids have been in for months. Try Creme of Nature's Herba Rich Braid & Weave Ease-Out. Remove braids gently (without tugging) from the bottom up.
* Keep your weave in check. See your stylist for a monthly touch-up to adjust the tracks. This step can prevent your hair from thinning, matting or breaking.
* Watch out for chlorine and perspiration. Sweat and swimming can weaken strands substantially, so be sure to rinse hair and scalp after a workout or swim to remove drying, damaging salt and chlorine deposits.
* Remember, healthy hair begins from within. Dr. Andrea Sullivan, author of The Path to Healing: A Guide to Wellness for Body, Mind, and Soul (Doubleday), recommends rounding out your diet with Omega-3 and Omega-6 supplements (the good fats in fish oils). Ask your physician for the appropriate dosage.
Hair SOS: Recognizing signs of distress
| Dry hair and scalp | Lack of proper conditioning and moisturizing; too much sun or chlorine; overuse of hair products with drying agents like alcohol. | Seek professional guidance in selecting the proper products and treatments that will infuse the hair with moisture. |
| Brittle fragile strands | Hair is overprocesses from too frequent or too lengthy use of heating tools, or chemical processing, which can be too strong or left on too long | Comit to a regimen put together by a professional. Can't get to one? Ceck out soft sheens antibreakage line, Breakthru, or Wella's lifetex wellness collection |
| Excessive split ends | Failure to get regular trims has caused hair to split up the shaft, leaving it fragile and weak. | Trim hair about every six weeks. Use a conditioner like nioxins structure and strength for strengthening |