Products free from cruelty for your skin and hair
You can get subtle or dramatic results from these products but as with permanent colors, dramatic results do necessitate some chemicals. ShiKai, available in natural food stores, is on the subtle end of the spectrum. ShiKai uses botanical extracts such as chamomile, blue and black malva and henna to subtly affect haircolor. The blue and black malva flowers in ShiKai's Brunette Formula, for example, give depth and richness to dark brown hair while minimizing red tones.
For a more dramatic effect, consider Jason's color-enhancing shampoos with exotic ingredients such as coffee beans, black licorice and blackberries as well as some artificial colorants. Each use of these shampoos increases the intensity of highlights and you can achieve very noticeable results that can be washed out when you tire of them. If you're really in mood to cut loose, Jason offers a shade called "Fun Fuschia" that gives punkishly pink highlights. Thankfully, it washes out before that big meeting on Monday.
Learning to shop - cruelty free
Given the range of choices in your natural food store it's now possible to use natural cosmetics without looking natural. You can buy scarlet lipstick as well as subtle loss, sunscreen to protect you from sun damage and a bronzer to fake a tan. You can cover your gray or shampoo yourself pink. With all these choices, how do you know what to buy?
Although there are exceptions, most natural food stores don't have makeup artists and beauty advisors on staff. While there are advantages to shopping without someone hovering over you (no more lectures on pore maintenance and cheek contouring), it takes a certain amount of know-how to select the haircolor and makeup that best suits you. Here are some tips for negotiating the testers and haircolor swatches:
Foundation: If you know you'll be buying cosmetics, don't wear any to the store. You want to test cosmetics on a clean face. If you didn't plan ahead, take the opportunity to test a nearby facial cleanser. Zia's Paddy Ryan recommends that you test the foundation not on your hand but on your jawline. Don't try to give yourself a hint of tan or a rosy complexion -- it'll look like a mask. For a natural look, match your skin tone exactly. Try several shades. The one that seems to "disappear" into your skin is the one you want to own.
Haircolor: No matter what you're trying to accomplish, try to first match the exact shade of your natural color. Once you've done that, you'll know what "one shade lighter" or "two levels darker" means. Not sure how your own color compares to the swatches? Bring along a sharp-eyed friend to help.
Lipstick: Colors can usually be divided into one of two color families -- warm colors and cool colors. Warm colors have orange-yellow overtones, cool colors have a pinkish-blue cast. For example, the red of a can of Coca-Cola is a warm red; the red color of raspberries is cool. Most people have a slight yellow undertone to their skin and are flattered by shades in the warm family. Some of us are easily categorized as one or the other. If you have red hair and/or freckles, you definitely should stick to warm shades. If you have jet-black hair, blue eyes and very pale skin with pink cheeks, you'll probably look best in cool colors. Still not sure whether you're warm or cool? Ask yourself whether you'd look great in a fuschia or royal blue dress. If not, go with warm colors. If fuschia looks great on you, go with cool. If you're looking at cosmetics that don't have warm/cool labels, the color names can help you out. Colors with names like cherry, scarlet and burgundy are usually cool colors; peach, brick red and terracotta are usually warm.
Blush: A common makeup mistake is to head straight for the cake of bubblegum pink blush. Because most of us have yellow undertones to our skin, a tawnier or peachier shade is often more flattering.
Eyeshadows: The classic eyeshadow look is a pairing of two related, neutral shades. The lighter shade covers the lid, the darker shade goes in the crease and in the outer corner of your lid. While baby blue and deep purple might be fun for a fashion fling, most women find that earthy shades are easiest to wear. Look for colors with names like sand, taupe, khaki and chocolate.
Powder: Pressed or loose translucent powder is excellent for setting makeup or for blotting away shine. Like foundation, you want to try to match your natural skin tone. Because you'll only be dusting on a translucent coat, you don't need to be as exacting about the color as you would with foundation. A close match is perfectly OK.
Mascara: While manufacturers produce mascara colors like navy blue and teal green, adults should stick to brown, black or brown-black. If your hair and coloring is darker, black is ideal. If you're very fair or red-headed, brown will probably be more flattering.
Eyeliners: Don't believe what you've heard about blue eyeliners making your eyes look bluer or green bringing out the teal in hazel eyes. Unless you really know what you're doing, colorful eyeliner will make you look like a raccoon with a particularly vivid eye disease. The real purpose of eyeliner is to subtly shape your eye and to add bulk to your lashline. Stick with neutral, believable colors such as black, brown or dark gray.
Lipliners: Thankfully, this one's a no-brainer. If you're using a sheer or light-colored lipstick, you may not need a liner at all. Dark or very obvious lipstick colors (like red or dark plum) need a matching lipliner to keep the color contained.
Geri Anne Fennessey is a freelance writer based in New York City. She specializes in the coverage of beauty and personal care.
COPYRIGHT 1997 Vegetarian Times, Inc. All rights reserved.
in association with The Gale Group and LookSmart. COPYRIGHT 2000 Gale Group
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