Hair Makeover

Even more great hair care tips

PLAYING WITH CUT, COLOR AND TEXTURE

An expert cut or even a color lift adds oomph to lifeless hair. With the aid of a skilled stylist, you can put your best hair forward

Melissa's shoulder-length hair was fragile and had extensive damage in the back from heat and chemical abuse. To give the illusion of thickness and to work around the breakage, stylist Kiyah Wright of Styles Salon in New York City gave her a layered bob.

Penni's hair was healthy but missing that wow factor. Veron Charles of Crown and Glory Design Salon in New York City and Clairol professional color master blended warm browns and golden highlights for richness and depth. Hair was wrap-set, and stylist Kimberly Hendrickson flipped ends using a large barrel curling iron and fingered it into shape.

how much is enough?

TIPS ON SALON TIPPING

Although most hair-care professionals agree that there is no set scale for salon tipping, New York City master stylist John Atchison says that there is a standard. The range varies from 15 to 20 percent of the total bill when dealing with one professional. When multiple specialists provide services, tip 15 to 20 percent of the price of each treatment to the appropriate person; your shampoo person could expect $3 to $5.

Harriette Cole, author of How to Be: Contemporary Etiquette for African-Americans, notes that traditionally salon owners who rent out booths were not tipped for hair care. She said that contrary to this tradition many owners are beginning to see tips from customers as an acknowledgment of their service.

Pressing On

Tips for hot-combed hair

Stylists advise that you take the heat of a pressing iron from a professional, but if you do take matters into your own hands, check out these pointers first: * Start with clean, well-conditioned natural hair (pressing relaxed hair is a no-no). * Protect hair from breakage because of the pressing comb's extreme heat by applying a leave-in conditioner after washing; it's an excellent safeguard. * Famed stylist Oscar James prefers to press hair that has dried naturally in sections. This is ideal for wavy textures, but for tighter curl patterns, blow-drying with a comb attachment loosens the coils and detangles the hair. * Before blow-drying, section hair into manageable portions. The number of sections will vary, depending on the thickness of the hair, but never make fewer than four sections. * Stylist Tippi Shorter of New York City suggests using, medium to low heat when blow-drying to protect against unnecessary breakage. Always dry the back first, since the hair there is often stronger and thicker than in the front, requiring the most heat and the strength of your arms. * Before pressing, add protection and moisture with pomade or oil. Be careful not to overdo it--a little can go a long way. * Before pressing, whether you're using the stove or an electric comb, cool the iron on a damp cloth or paper towel. As Shorter runs the hot comb through the hair, she uses the back of the iron to ensure sleekness. She also uses a smaller-toothed iron near the scalp and edges. * After all the hair has been pressed once, follow with a second comb-through for smoothness.



--PAMELA M. EDWARDS
TRIED AND TRUE
Superstylists share their prepress picks
Celebrity stylist Oscar James: Murray's Pomade, "Warm in your hands first before applying. It will do the job for most hair types."
Stylist Tippi Shorter in New York City: Mizani Rose [H.sub.2]O. "It has a pleasant fragrance and contains botanical oils that add great sheen."
Olive Lee Benson of Olive's Salon in Boston: Nameste Organic Root Stimulator's Olive Oil. "Full of nutrients that are great for the scalp, it's light and moves easily through hair."
stylefile
Clique Salon and Spa (609) 239-8181
Located on the banks of the scenic Delaware river, Phyllis McLin's Clique Salon and Spa is a style sanctuary in Burlington, New Jersey--20 minutes from downtown Philadelphia.
Designed with a warm and inviting Moroccan theme, this serene Aveda concept salon boasts an expert staff of stylists, aestheticians, massage therapists, nail technicians and a reflexologist. Join the sisters at Clique for the latest styles and cuts ($30-$85), or book a spa treatment such as the La Stone Massage ($85).
COPYRIGHT 2000 Essence Communications, Inc.

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