Your Hair : Crowning Glory
How internal health is reflected in hair
Author/s: Valerie Latona
Our guide to getting shiny, healthy hair in no time
Bad hair days
We all have them, rather than just accepting them or throwing on a hat to hide your head, examine your hair habits. Everything from the kind of comb you're using to what you eat and how much water you drink can affect whether you'll have dull, dry, damaged, oily or can't-hold-a-style hair. "The road to stunning hair does not begin from the outside; it begins with our internal health," says Helen Lee, Chinese herbal practitioner and author of The Tao of Beauty (Broadway Books, 1999).
Dry scalp, lackluster strands and split ends are dead giveaways that you're not eating a diet that's good for your hair. Make sure you are getting enough vitamins and minerals from fresh fruits, vegetables and whole grains (B vitamins, vitamin E, iron, zinc and silica are particularly good for hair) and good fats, including essential fatty acids, also known as EFAs (flaxseed oil, dark leafy greens, walnuts, almonds and sunflower seeds), advises New York City holistic beauty expert Kat James. And don't forget to drink at least eight 8-ounce glasses of water a day.
Next focus on what you put on your hair. Because hair type can change as a result of pregnancy, medications (including birth control pills) and aging, even your tried-and-true products may no longer be appropriate--and may be full of harmful chemicals. "Hair products that contain man-made ingredients can be too harsh and drying," explains Stephanie Tourles, a Hyannis, Mass.-based aesthetician and author of The Herbal Body Book (Storey Communications, 1994). She recommends studying product labels and steering clear of sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate and cocamide DEA. "All are detergents that create the lather we love so much in our shampoos,, she says. (But, she points out, lather isn't a sign of cleansing power; it's just a chemical reaction caused by synthetic ingredients.) Better choices are gentle soap-based cleansers made with castile (derived from olive oil) and decyl polyglucose (created from corn). "They clean but don't strip the natural, protective oils from the scalp and hair," says Tourles.
Botanicals are another family of ingredients that you want in hair products. Peppermint, eucalyptus, thyme and rosemary are great hair herbs because they stimulate the scalp, says Robin Michelle, owner of the Alternative Salon in Chappaqua, N.Y. Increased circulation creates more blood flow, which results in better distribution of oil all over the scalp and helps prevent dry, damaged and thinning hair as well as the clogging of hair follicles by dead cells and oil. Salons like Moty Moty in New York City combine herbs and natural oils with scalp massages and hot towel wraps for a relaxing, deep-conditioning treatment. The heat from the towels helps open the hair follicles (in the same way steam opens pores on the skin) and allows them to absorb the herbs and nutrients. "The goal is to nourish the hair by revitalizing and treating the scalp," says salon owner Moty Alvow.
To help you in your quest for a healthy mane, we've created a care guide for different types of hair.
Normal Hair
The Problem: There is none. This hair type has the right balance of oils on the scalp with neither excessive dryness nor oiliness. Here's how to preserve that balance.
Beauty Regime
* Shampoo every other day, unless you exercise regularly (then wash daily). It's best to use gentle shampoos that contain plant-based ingredients, such as aloe and jojoba oil, and don't strip natural oils from the scalp and hair.
* Use a conditioner sparingly. You don't need a conditioner every day if your hair isn't dry. Instead, use a detangling after-shower spray if your hair knots easily.
* Massage your Scalp weekly. Gently apply a few drops of lavender essential oil to boost blood flow in the scalp. It will promote the distribution of natural oils and maintain shine.
Editors' Picks
Shampoo: Aveda Shampure; Kiss My Face Olive and Aloe Shampoo
Conditioner: Aveda Curessence; Kiss My Face Olive Oil Conditioner
Other Products: Aubrey Organic Primrose Tangle-Go Conditioner, Lusterizer and Styling Spray; ShiKai Salon Naturals Medium Hold Finishing Spray
Oily Hair
The Problem: The scalp's sebaceous glands are overproducing oil, creating hair that is greasy-looking and often flat by midday.
Beauty Regime
* Wash hair daily. Use shampoos with such plant-based astringents as tea tree; peppermint, sage and lemon essential oils. Dilute one teaspoon of shampoo in one teaspoon of water to make the shampoo more gentle.
* Condition only the ends of the hair. You'll keep the hair healthy and prevent product buildup, which can flatten hair.
* Stay away from heavy styling products. These tend to weigh the hair down. Instead, look for products that contain lighter ingredients like seaweed and plant-based tragacanth and arabic gums.
* Keep your hands out of your hair. Sweaty palms will make your hair more greasy.
Editors' Picks
Shampoo: Dr. Hauschka Pure Shampoo; Earth Science Citress Shampoo; ShiKai detergent-free Original Natural Shampoo
Conditioner: Dr. Hauschka Herbal Hair Conditioner; Earth Science CitreSoft Conditioner; ShiKai Amla Conditioner
Other Products: Aubrey Organic Natural Mist Hair Spray; ABBA Weightless Styling Gel with seaweed and henna
Dry Hair
The Problem: Hair follicles get clogged with sebum, which prevents this natural oil from flowing freely across the scalp and throughout the hair. The result is flyaway, easily damaged hair full of split ends and, in some cases, dandruff.
Beauty Regime
* Shampoo two to three times a week. Over-shampooing dries hair out.
* Use products with panthenol. Also known as vitamin [B.sub.5], this nutrient helps repair split ends and flyaway hair by thickening hair strands.
* Avoid perms and straighteners. They can dry out and damage delicate hair.
* Take supplements. Add one to three teaspoons of flaxseed oil to your diet. This good fat can contribute to shiny, supple hair. Vitamin E in doses of 200 to 400 international units (IU) daily can also help.
* Treat yourself to a deep-conditioning hot-oil treatment once or twice a week to keep hair manageable. Warm one tablespoon of jojoba, avocado or olive oil (all excellent moisturizers) in the palm of your hand. Massage into hair. Place a shower cap over your head for 30 to 60 minutes, then shampoo.
Healthy hair requires a healthy diet.
Editors' Picks
Shampoo: ABBA Creme-Moist with amica, cherry bark, almond, calendula and lavender; Desert Essence Moisture Shampoo; Jason Natural Cosmetics Tea Tree Oil Shampoo
Conditioner: ABBA TruMint with vitamin E and panthenol; Desert Essence Moisture Management Conditioner with lavender, rosemary and jojoba oil; Jason Natural Cosmetics Tea Tree Oil Conditioner
Other Products: Aubrey Organic [B.sub.5] Design Gel; Weleda Rosemary Hair Oil; Beauty Without Cruelty Natural Hold Hair Spray
Damaged Hair
The Problem: Fragile hair that is prone to split ends and is typically flyaway and difficult to manage. The damage can stem from over-processing, excessive sun or blow-drying.
Beauty Regime
* Shampoo two or three times a week. Look for shampoos with the herb horsetail. It contains the mineral silica that strengthens hair and adds sheen.
* Opt for an easy-to-maintain hairstyle, that lets you wash and go. Stay away from hair dryers, hot rollers and curling irons.
* Detangle wet hair with a wide-tooth comb to prevent breakage.
* Use styling products with guar gum or flaxseed. These natural ingredients found in gels and sprays are less harsh than products with a high isopropyl or ethyl alcohol content.
* Don't pull your hair back into a tight ponytail or braid. These styles can stress strands.
* Trim hair regularly. Taking off an inch at least every six to eight weeks keeps ends from getting further damaged.
* Wear a cap when swimming. Chlorine dries out the hair and can alter the color of chemically treated hair.
* Treat yourself to a hot-oil treatment once or twice a week.
Editors' Picks
Shampoo: Aubrey Organic Rosa Mosqueta Rose Hip Herbal Shampoo; Weleda Chamomile Shampoo
Conditioner: Aubrey Organic Rosa Mosqueta Rose Hip Herbal Conditioning Hair Cream; Weleda Chamomile Conditioner
Other Products: Burt's Bees Farmer's Market Avocado Butter Hair Treatment; Giovanni Blue More Body Herbal Hair Thickener and Styling Gel
No matter what your hair type, you can have great-looking locks. "If you follow the right diet and care routine, you can begin growing healthier hair within weeks," says Kat James. "Hair is 30 percent what you're born with, and 70 percent what you do to it."
Seven Tips for All Hair Types
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Rinse out conditioner with cool water. It's OK to rinse shampoo with warm water, but a final cool-water rinse closes the hair cuticle (which opens when exposed to warm water), giving your hair more shine, according Robin Michelle, owner of the Alternative Salon in Chappaqua, N.Y.
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Use a clarifying (deep-cleansing) shampoo once a week to remove the buildup of styling products and oil, which can cause lackluster locks. (Editors' Pick: ABBA's Molasses Purifier shampoo with baking soda.)
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Raid your refrigerator. Lemon or apple cider vinegar rinses are natural, inexpensive ways to increase shine. Mix one tablespoon with a cup of water and pour over shampooed hair; then rinse with water. And mashed avocado is a great moisturizer for all hair types except oily. Massage into the hair, cover head with a shower cap for 30 minutes, then rinse out with a shampoo.
Air-dry your hair whenever possible. Blow-drying can damage the hair, causing split ends and flyaway strands. If you must blow-dry, first towel dry your hair with a super-absorbent towel (Editors' Pick: Britanne's Aquis) then blow-dry on the lowest, coolest setting possible.
Brush 50 to 100 strokes a day. Turn your head upside clown and give it a good brushing from the scalp to the ends. "It stimulates the scalp and spreads natural oils through the hair," says Michelle.
Get a shower filter. Chlorine in the water dries the hair and scalp out, according to holistic beauty expert Kat James of New York City. (Editors' Pick: Waterwise's Showerwise.)
Wear a hat in the sun. It minimizes sun damage and prevents hair from drying out.
