THE FOUR SCALP TYPES: WHICH ONE ARE YOU?

There are four conditions that affect the scalp--dry, oily, flaky and dandruff--and sometimes they appear in combination.

1 Dry Scalp, characterized by itching and sometimes, dry flakes (not dandruff-like clumps), can be caused by genetics or harsh shampoos; in the latter case, the damage can be offset by switching to a plant-based, pH-balanced product. Shampooing hair more than once a day also leads to problems. "People who exercise a lot need to cleanse more often, but they shouldn't shampoo more than once a day--just rinse," says Hamernik. And when you shower, turn down the water temperature. While hot water might be soothing, it can exacerbate a dry scalp problem. "Most of us use excessively hot water, which means you're no longer hydrating, you're dehydrating," she explains.

One of the best ways to treat dry scalp flakiness is with an essential oil, though oily scalps also can benefit. Lazo recommends massaging a few drops into the scalp for five minutes or longer before shampooing. Jojoba oil, which smells fresh and fruity and has a nongreasy feel, is "the most effective for breaking up encrusted oil and pollution and helps to break up flakes so that they're easier to remove during shampooing," Hamernik says.

Tea tree oil, a natural antiseptic that combats bacteria and soothes irritated skin, has a strong disinfectant smell, so look for hair products that contain it if you don't want to apply it in its pure form. A good one for normal to dry hair is Desert Essence's Daily Replenishing Conditioner with tea tree oil and jojoba. To ease the itchiness often associated with dry scalp, apply cooling eucalyptus oil. Essential oil of sage moisturizes and soothes very dry hair and a scalp that's been damaged by overprocessing. To use either of these essential oils, just warm a few drops in your palm, massage them into your hair, wrap head with a warm towel for 10 minutes or longer and then shampoo. A dry, itchy scalp is a bigger problem in winter and may need extra conditioning and essential oil treatments when the air tends to be drier.

2 Oily scalp is another hereditary condition aggravated by stress, exercise, infrequent shampooing, excess conditioning or anything else that overstimulates hair follicles so they release extra oil called sebum. Even if your hair is dry and damaged, your scalp can still be oily. So if you're slathering on moisturizing treatments to no avail, you may have an oily scalp. Tea tree oil's natural antiseptic properties can help prevent the dandruff that so often affects an oily scalp. If both your hair and scalp are oily, try Tea Tree Solutions Keep-The-Clean Shampoo, All-Day-Shine conditioner and Scalp Tonic, which contain organically grown tea tree oil in combination with fragrant oils such as patchouli, lavender and geranium. To break up oily deposits, try the jojoba treatment for dry scalp. Summer's heat and humidity stimulate oil production, which necessitates daily shampooing and oil-free rinses.

3 Flaky scalp is caused either by an excessively dry scalp or by dead skin cells mingling with styling products, sebum and pollutants. Combined with bacteria, any one of these conditions can lead to the type of clumpy buildup that typifies dandruff, says Philip Kingsley, a London-based hair care specialist and author of Hair, An Owner's Handbook (Aurum Press Ltd., 1995). Depending on whether your scalp is essentially dry or oily, the above treatments can help.

4 Dandruff is almost invariably associated with an oily scalp. The characteristic detritus forms when flaky scalp parts absorb sebum and other secretions and clump along the hair shaft. Scalps flake when dead skin cells mingle with styling products, sebum and pollutants. Dandruff--though embarrassing--is relatively easy to tame with the oily scalp treatments listed previously. More entrenched conditions may require a doctor's visit. If dandruff is accompanied by a bleeding scalp or hair loss, consult a dermatologist.

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