Be-weave it or not! (making hair weave undetectable)
Author: Pamela M. Edwards
The 411 on what's making hair weave virtually undetectable
Not too long ago if you wore a weave, the world knew it. But today, with the
variety of hair textures and colors to choose from, as well as techniques for
application, unbelievably true looks are attainable. "My clients are wearing
weaves because they can have an active lifestyle and still look fabulous without
too much fuss," says Stephanie Daniels of the Robert Young Salons in Houston.
Her clients request everything from bone-straight hair-down-your-back Sade looks
to kinky 'fros. One popular technique is fusion, in which additional hair is
attached to a client's own with hot waxy adhesive. Tiny portions of hair are
wrapped with the weaved hair close to the root, and the rest is left free. Many
stylists maintain that this technique allows the hair to move more freely than
it does with a classic weave (where a weft of hair is sewn to a cornrow of your
own hair). However, glue is glue. According to Oscar James, hair and weave master
to the stars, despite the popularity of fusion, there is still a great risk
of breakage from the glue when the hair is removed.
Perhaps that's why many stylists are sticking with traditional sew-in weaves,
believing them to be longer-lasting and less damaging to hair. "The classic
weave, especially with a protective net, causes far less breakage than methods
using glue or wax," says superstar stylist Shirlena Allen, artistic director
of 50 North in Beverly Hills. She's found that the health of her clients' hair
and scalp has really improved since she began applying a net between the natural
hair and the weave. The hair is woven onto the cornrow net, creating a barrier
between cornrow and weave. During washing and conditioning, the net prevents
the breakage and matting that can occur from handling the fragile area where
new growth and cornrow meet.
To keep traditional weaves looking real, special attention should be paid to
the natural cornrows beneath the weave. The "bumps" we sometimes see
under a weave occur when the cornrows are too fat or aren't complementing the
shape of the head. Shirlena also believes the cut is key to a natural-looking
fall. She razor-cuts the ends for less blunt-looking weaves, and she pays special
attention to her selection of hair (texture and color) to achieve a realistic
finish.
Jasmine Gerald of New York City's Glow Salon points out a major plus for classic
weaving: You can really play with color without damaging your hair. Gerald weaves
lustrous highlights and streaks into her clients' hair, avoiding the over-processing
of chemical dyes. Ellin LaVar of LaVar Hair Designs in New York City is a hair-weaving
specialist whose celebrity clients include Mary J. Blige, Missy Elliott and
Naomi Campbell and a host of other models. She prefers the classic technique
but admits that with proper maintenance almost any method can work if the hair
is kept in good condition. It's important, however, to follow these tips offered
by LaVar:
- Schedule a consultation so you and your stylist can determine which method and style work best with your hair.
- Go for the most natural look possible, considering your lifestyle, your hairline and the texture of your hair, which the weaved hair should match.
- Care for your hair following the advice of your stylist on matters such as when and how much to wash and condition, and the amount of time needed between weaves.
- Don't leave a weave in too long. Three months is usually the maximum. Otherwise, you're headed for trouble--matting, scalp problems and hair breakage among them!
